This is the gauge swatch from the new Eilanner Shawl pattern, but I used tencel thread and a giant hook for kicks. So airy! It inspired me to try draping it on a mannequin different ways. View full size.
I released a new Tunisian crochet pattern the other day. There’s a lot going on in it! I think of the design as containing modules of mini-patterns. Some of them hint at new stitch patterns.
Seeds of New Stitch Patterns
Often if you change one thing about a stitch pattern you can get a whole new effect that’s cool enough to count as a new stitch pattern. (This would be a good newsletter issue, come to think of it…) Here are some I swatched while Eilanner was being edited, and the things I changed to generate them. I posted them to Instagram.
Change the Yarn and/or Gauge
An obvious way to get a new effect with a stitch pattern is to use a dramatically different crochet hook size, or yarn thickness/fiber type, or all of these (as in that first image above). Super summery look! Reminds me of tall grasses.
There’s something else going on with it too: it’s really just a gauge swatch pattern. The skill level for Eilanner is Experienced. Getting the exact gauge is not important for the pattern but I thought it would help some crocheters to focus on just the main stitch pattern without the fancy edging at both row ends and the constant increasing.
By the way, if you’re interested in Eilanner but worry it’s too challenging, work up to it with its predecessors. Shakti is like “Eilanner 101” and Islander is “Eilanner 102”. (I named Eilanner after Islander.)
Repeat a Special Stitch Group All Over
Another way to do a stitch pattern spin-off is take a stitch group and repeat that. Here’s Eilanner’s “tattoo flower” eyelet group repeated as an all-over motif.
This right here is a fraction of the possible new stitch patterns to generate this way! For example, the eyelets could be grouped differently, or stacked in columns instead of spread out in an alternating way. Moving eyelets around is an art form in itself.
I haven’t even tried sprinkling in stitch texture contrasts. Have a look at what happened when I added a similar stitch texture: love knots!
I woke up this morning with another idea for a stitch pattern that will probably show up in Instagram once I swatch it up. (The way Instagram displays images helps me contemplate designs.)
Isolate One Key Stitch
Not every stitch pattern has a key stitch to isolate. Eilanner does, though: the shallow-extended stitch I blogged about last week. The swatch below is pretty rustic and it’s not easy to see what is different about the stitch, but have a look.
It’s kind of loose so that I can see what the stitch texture is doing. I chose Icelandic wool for this because I love that the shallow-extended stitch is like a reversible and non-curling version of Tunisian Knit stitch.
If you like seeing my experimental swatches, follow me in Instagram where I tend to post them first. And please tell me what you like or don’t about them! It inspires designs and class topics.
Eilanner has been a new experience for me of many things. The flower “tattoo” accent and a row-shaping stitch at the back neck were fun to develop. So was getting fancy with the Return Passes, and experimenting with extended-stitch eyelets.
Eilanner means “islander” in Frisian. The lattice edging of TunisianIslander, which is crocheted point-to-point along only one edge, inspired me to try it at both ends of each row. The self-edging contrast border widens gradually as the shawl widens.
Skill Level: Experienced
The return passes add an uncommon amount of special features. I also introduce a new stitch! For Eilanner it changes the row height at the back neck during the forward passes. It also makes the “tattoo-flower” eyelets pop.
Another reason for the Experienced rating is its lush built-in border: it starts in seed form at the bottom point and gradually widens. I see this unique Tunisian pattern as containing semi-independent mini-pattern modules within it.
Don’t be deterred! It’s a gradual roll out of pattern changes that happen at a measured pace designed to keep things interesting. I’ve provided a gauge swatch so that you can try the basic stitch pattern without the edging or starting in a corner. (Matching the stated gauge is not necessary.)
Visual aids: two stitch diagrams, and a schematic with signposts like a road map. Stitch close ups for both right- and left-handed crocheters are on the last two print-optional pages. As an advanced-skill Tunisian pattern this has more pattern abbreviations. For your convenience, every other pattern page has a Stitch Guide sidebar.
Either one of Eilanner’s older sister-designs—Tunisian Islander,Neck Lattice—would be an ideal stepping stone to this pattern. If the lattice edging seems tricky, start with Shakti Scarfythings, which uses the same stitch but doesn’t include the border.
?After using this pattern, you will know (if you didn’t already):
How to start a lacy self-edged Tunisian triangle shawl at the bottom point and end at the top edge.
How to add a striking lattice border of tall, interlaced Tunisian crochet sts along both edges.
How to crochet netlike eyelets with simple extended stitches.
How to crochet a promising new Tunisian stitch!
How to use the Return Pass for lacy effects.
How to create a fancy “tattoo flower” detail.
How to add Back Neck shaping by changing row heights.
Finished Dimensions
Finished Size of Triangular Shawl (pictured): About 65″ {165.1 cm} wide from point to point and 25″ {63.5 cm} long atdeepest point of triangle.
Materials
Hooks Straight or Flexible Tunisian crochet hook at least 19″ {48.3 cm} long: Size I/9 {5.5 mm} or size needed to match gauge. I used a set of interchangeable hooks to increase the cable length as needed. Regular crochet hook of the same size (usedfor border).
Yarn Used Newton Yarn Tencel Linen (75% tencel, 25% linen; 1450 yd [1326 m]/16 oz [454 g]; CYC #2): 625 yds. It’s listed as #3 DK weight but it’s closer to #1 Fingering. The final ropy Z-twist gives it a lovely surface but my tests suggest that it adds a strong bias to this pattern. If you’re crocheting right-handed, I recommend a yarn with a final S-twist for a weak bias that blocks out, especially a blend with drape, such as merino or alpaca with rayon. (Fine wool-blend yarns tend to have a final S-twist.) The blue Bijou Spun Llasa Wilderness swatch pictured below is great! It’s a #2 sport weight blend of 75% yak, 25% rayon.
Any yarn thickness will work; simply use a larger crochet hook size for a thicker yarn and test with the Gauge Swatch.
Notions 3 stitch markers that will fit easily around the Tunisian hook. Yarn needle for weaving ends.
A NEW class for 2022. This is a three-hour class that was held online for CGOA over two days: Tuesday February 1 and Wednesday February 2, 2022.
Why Extend?
Extended Tunisian stitches bring new textures and flexibility to Tunisian Crochet, sometimes dramatically! With less yarn, and so little effort too. I’ve been exploring extended versions of standard Tunisian stitches for many years. Scroll down to see the Extended Tunisian Stitch Design Gallery.
Here’s why I do it:
Make quick progress on a big project, or with very fine yarn. Each row is taller.
Get more mileage out of a small pricy skein. An extended Tunisian fabric weighs less because extended stitches are a bit thinner.
It’s easy to add shells and other groups of increases wherever you like. This is not true of the most common non-extended stitches–unless you start the stitch with a yarn over, such as a Tunisian double crochet, which is a bit bulkier.
Do fine gradations of stitch heights: get the perfect row gauge as well as the stitch gauge stated in a crochet pattern. Make sloping rows for cool color effects. These are options we take for granted with regular crochet.
Many of these stitches are self-healing, meaning if you cut (“steek”) them later to make armholes or a head opening they will form their own safely bound off edge.
New mosaic–overlay–intermeshed types of colorwork with Tunisian get a boost from extended stitches. See my recent Embossed Stars post.
Makes Great Fabrics!
Eliminate the “Tunisian curl”–that annoying thing that happens when the edges of your work roll up while you’re crocheting more rows onto it. Crocheting lace avoids this curling, but extended Tunisian stitches work for dense, non-lacy patterns too.
Clothing fits comfortably. Extended Tunisian fabric has more flex, more drape, more stretch. Really thermal yarns, like mohair, alpaca, and Angora have room to expand and breathe.
The Class Resources
Extended Tunisian Stitches: Design Gallery
Rivuline ShawlPure Handspun AngoraExt Color-Pooled SilkInverse Ext Tunisian silk!Graven collar Ext StitchExtended St ChevronExtend + Shallow StitchesSuperfine Extended NetGlistening GlossDense or LacySelf-Edged Extended StWarm Embossed Ext Stars
These are issues of my Crochet Inspirations Newsletter, and blog posts, spanning 2010 to today. Keep in mind that many links in pre-2018 newsletter issues are broken.
Flickr photo album for this class. This is a great way to see class material at full resolution, and to see an array of new stitch patterns. I love scrolling through my stitch albums. I’m continually creating swatches and photos to add to this album so check it again!
My Pinterest Pin Board created for this class topic. I’ve been finding some creative looks for extended Tunisian stitches in other crocheter’s pins from around the world. We discuss some of them in class.
This blog post is part of today’s newsletter issue #96. That issue has a storewide 25% off coupon code in it as a thank you to my subscribers. Look for it in your inbox later today. Also check your spam folder because this is a high-volume week for email. (Not a subscriber? It’s not too late.)
The clean, bold holiday template I used for issue #96 limits how I want to write, so here’s the rest of the story. This year I look at my holiday crochet project habits over the years. (By “holidays” I mean from Thanksgiving in the USA to New Years Day.)
Holiday Crochet Project Types
It turns out I look for about eight kinds of holiday crochet projects! Sounds like a lot but they usually overlap. I wonder if you are the same way? I’ve compressed my list into three in no special order.
Crochet is my go-to to relax and recharge, and it has been ever since I was nine years old. (When I learned how to do Transcendental Meditation, my first thought was, “This is like crocheting.”)
The crochet that replenishes me during the holidays is an instinctive thing and unique to each year. I loved looking back at these!
Clockwise from top left of image #1:
Big Hook Bucket of 2016 (I made three). Seeing it daily in my studio makes me happy.
Luckyslip Mitts of 2013: I just kept making ’em in all kinds of yarns, sizes, and stitch accents.
Antoinette Sparklescarf of 2011: The one shown is made with the same breathtaking yarn that inspired Starwirbel later. I made about ten and turned some into reusable gift wrapping ribbon.
Solstice Bangles of 2017. I really needed a lot of gem-like bling last year. Each was a tiny retreat: I got totally immersed for short moments because the materials were tricky, but each bangle was quick to complete.
Bling Bam Bangles of 2014: Took me by surprise. I wondered what it would be like to crochet Lotus yarn with a strand of sequined thread and I couldn’t stop. Very simple. A mindless, familiar rhythm.
Last-Minute Gift Making
I’m easily inspired by great new gift ideas to crochet, but I typically don’t have a sense of occasion until the last minute. (Fortunately crocheting smaller items is fun. They often become new designs instead of gifts though.) I greatly admire event planners and others who can plan ahead well, like those who have crochet gift lists they work through months ahead.
Last minute gift crocheting puts a burden on a crochet pattern to be easy to understand, and to call for no-fuss materials. It’s sort of like freelance crocheting for magazines in the sense that it’s tight deadline crochet.
If the item is a crowd pleaser, then it’s production crochet territory. Ideally the pattern is easy to memorize for make multiple items from it, efficiently (and still be fun).
Niche items are about specialized appeal and could be the perfect thing for someone. I focused on some in the newsletter: men, boys, teens, tweens, teachers, and mothers-in-law. These are the patterns shown clockwise from top left of image #2:
Expedient Cowl: Has trend appeal for teens and 20-somethings, including as a skirt! What makes it fast and easy enough is the super-bulky yarn, big hook size, and simple stitches.
Aran Rozsana cuff: Folk-boho jewelry trend. A mood boost to crochet with fingering or sport yarns and embroidery flosses because of the colors. Mostly single crochet (UK/AUS: dc).
Petticoat Cozy: Just a token gift item. It’s the double layer of lace that appeals to people. Same yarns as Aran Rozsana.
Frostyflakes: A really popular pattern and addictive to crochet! It has special appeal to women over 30. Use any yarn; I even made a bookmark with size 20 thread.
Gallon Friend: This curio is very niche. Make them for grade school and ESL school teachers, children, and for home cooks. I’ve always wanted to try a keychain size in thread!
Slip Slope: The scarf is a crowd pleaser and Google Trends tells me the boot cuffs are still trending high for younger folks! Also see the Lucky Twist Boot Cuff pattern in Ravelry.
Burly (center) and Burly Bias: The basic Burly scarf for men and boys, and the niche diagonal Tunisian necktie for the man who has everything. I love making the ice creamy one and like how it settles on my shoulders and frames my face.
Crochet Gifts for Mothers-in-Law
Seems oddly specific, doesn’t it? I’m surprised by the number of times someone has told me they used one of my patterns, or took one of my classes, specificallyso that they could make the item for their mother-in-law. (My own mother-in-law wanted a white angora hat to keep her ears warm.) The mother-in-law patterns:
Some Decembers I go to so many parties. A pile of small crocheted gifts on hand would be great. Maybe a sack or decoration for a wine bottle, to decorate the lid of fresh-spiced nuts, etc.
Last year I had extra Solstice Bangles to toss onto a wine bottle neck—so festive! And the hostess ends up with new bangles.
Trend-Inspired
I checked on this season’s knitwear trends and this is what I found:
Creative use of fringe remains a strong fashion trend. My first thought is the Starpath Scarf because at this time of year it’s easy to set it down and remember what you were doing when you get back to it. Also, no ends to weave in, no matter how many colors you use.
Giant yarns, stitches, and accessories. Burly and the Expedient Cowl in super-bulky yarn (see Image #2 above) are tame compared to what’s on the runway. A Q-Star Coverlet in bulky yarn would be a lavish winter blanket! Or rug/bath mat?
Asymmetry, and diagonal/multidirectional seams and surface grain. Hello, Burly Bias (see above).
The holidays is when I splurge and reinvest in my craft. I hope you also treat yourself or another crocheter. Beyond shopping and spending, to me it’s about using this time to crochet with my fanciest yarn stash and maybe break in some new crochet hooks.
Other years it has been about bling. This year I’m feeling very angora-luxe. I’ve been hoarding angora yarn for too long.
If someone asked me what they should get from my shop and money was no object for them (or they want to make the most of the coupon code in the newsletter), these come to my mind in no special order:
Top row, Doris Chan’s DJC patterns (examples: Spirals, Lotus Bolero). And, cones of Lotus to go with them.
Next row, these patterns of mine as an investment for the particular crochet experiences they provide: Eilanner, Starwirbel, Rosepuff, Weightless.
Third row, every color of Lotus in Snack ball size (3 Six Packs would be 18 colors). So fun to have on hand.
Last week I used a new Tunisian crochet stitch to swatch up a few letters of the alphabet. You can see four of the letters above. (The background is something I crocheted for the kitchen years ago.) Just look at what I can spell! I also made an ‘L’ to spell LOVE. I’ll explain how to do the cool Tunisian stitch below.
I’m working on a newsletter issue (#95!) about COLOR. It gave me the idea to crochet a “poster” background for the letters using as many of my Lotus yarn colors as possible.
Does the stitch pattern of the background look familiar? Maybe not—it’s rarely done with color changes. (Not sure I’ve ever seen it in more than one color. I think it’s traditionally thought of as an Aran crochet texture in off-white wool.)
I used this stitch pattern for the Chainmaille scarf, in just one color. The shiny alpaca-tencel yarn gives it a very different look!
Chainmaille: Free for October
Add the Chainmaille pattern to your cart then use the code free-poster-stitch.
For the poster, just use four pattern repeats of the Chainmaille scarf. For the flatter middle section where the letters go, I did the [ch 1, skip next ch-space, sc] part of the stitch pattern across each row for about 18 rows, then resumed the Chainmaille pattern again. Use a shallow single crochet instead of a regular single crochet if you know how. (Keeps the background a bit denser.)
The Tunisian Stitch I’m Excited About!
I don’t know what else to call it but a shallow extended knit stitch.
First you must do a row of Tunisian Extended Stitch (ExtTSS or as I much prefer to call it, TES). It’s how you crochet the next row into them that turns them into shallow extended knit stitches.
For the alphabet letters I did just one row of TES into the foundation chains: skip the chain nearest your hook, insert your hook under the bump loop of the next chain, yarn over and pull up loop; at this point you’d leave it on your hook for a TSS. Chain 1 and it becomes a TES. To continue, [insert hook under the bump loop of the next chain, yarn over and pull up loop, chain 1] in each remaining chain of the row.
Standard return pass: chain 1, then [yarn over and pull through next two loops on hook] until one loop remains on the hook.
Have a look at your TES row. Compare them to TSS. The chain-1 you added to each TSS doubles its height and adds a horizontal loop on the back of the stitch. See it? See how it resembles the horizontal loop on the back of a single crochet stitch? (See this blog post about that “third loop”.)
This is the front of an extended Tunisian stitch. (This one is an extended knit stitch: a TEKS.) If your hook went where the red arrow points—between the front and back vertical bars—you’d make a TEKS. Insert the hook where the yellow arrow points and it becomes a SHALLOW TEKS.
To do a row of shallow extended knit stitch: chain 1 to begin the row (count as first stitch), *insert hook knitwise (between the front and back vertical bars) and under the lower horizontal “bump” loop (as seen on the back) of the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, chain 1. Repeat from * in each remaining stitch of the row.
Return pass is the same.
As with all occasions when you’re crocheting shallow stitches, the looser your gauge is, the easier it is to pick up speed crocheting them.
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