Posted on 1 Comment

Why I’d Want to Learn How to Crochet

Crocheted honeycomb slots of the Big Hook Bucket seen from the top.
Pictured: Honeycomb-top Big Hook Bucket!

 

After decades of crocheting and writing about it, I’ve reconsidered the essential character and fundamentals of crochet. I’m an even bigger fan than I already was! Consider what is remarkable about crochet with me:

Why I’d Want to Learn How to Crochet

Easy Control

Terms like easy and simple come up often about crochet. They usually imply not complicated, but I think that’s misleading. What’s easy about crochet is that you have a lot of built-in control. The hook provides it, and the logical structure of one “locked down” loop at a time does it.

Irresistible Rhythm

Crocheting has a wonderfully rejuvenating rhythm. It’s comforting to frayed nerves and reassuring in difficult times. I would want to learn how to crochet just to have this experience.

The Textures Look Complex

The result is a textured fabric that looks more complex than it is. I also appreciate how the inter-looped structure reinforces the material used. It can take the form of diaphanous, seemingly two-dimensional weightless fabrics, a stretchy wind-proof covering, a luxe pearl strand, or a big free-standing figure.

Rapid-Rip

The whole piece is easily “unzipped.” Crocheters call it frogging (because you “rip-it”). The yarn can then be reused, unlike with macramé, for example, which requires you to use several cut pieces instead of one continuous length.

Experience Every Color & Fiber

Stack of sparkling crocheted Solstice Bangles.
Crocheted wire, fancy embroidery braids, and metallic flosses: Solstice Bangles.

If I didn’t already know how, I’d want to learn how to crochet just to try crocheting with yarns of different fibers, colors, and thicknessesIt’s a new experience each time. I’m in control of what I spend, too: each crochet project can be as economical or expensive as I want it to be.

I’d say that anything based on manipulating several yards (meters) of stringy stuff will not be easy initially for some folks, but the small challenge is so worth it. Wielding that crochet hook gives you the edge you need to control the yarn while it flows through your fingers at a good rate. It takes just a bit of practice to get up to speed.

As Fast & Portable As Needed

Crochet is as fast, lightweight, and portable as you want it to be. You’re in control there too. No bulky or heavy frames or looms to manage with crochet. Even hairpin lace, a crochet lace technique that uses a type of “loom,” is portable. Most of these mitts were crocheted in one day during a road trip!

I learned how to play the piano, and how to weave, and neither of these was very portable. I’d want to learn how to crochet like some people want to learn guitar: so that they can play anywhere.

Varied & Versatile

Finally, I’d want to learn how to crochet because it adapts to every phase of my life. It’s a distinctly useful, accessible, and versatile construction method. As a child I crocheted things for my sister’s dolls, and for my teachers and friends. As an expectant mother I crocheted things for the baby and to help me wait. I’ve crocheted trendy accessories, toys, Halloween props, protective shields for tech items, educational aids, and the best thing I’ve ever worn to a memorial service.

Double-stranded Lovelace swatch: sport weight Lotus and lace weight glittery mohair.
I designed Lovelace to see a northern stitch & southern stitch together in a project!

Historically, crochet developed in several places worldwide. Too bad the specifics of when, and in relation to where, are under-researched and inconclusive.

Given that crochet is a dramatically responsive technique, its development is likely to show marks of time, place, and purpose. For example, doesn’t it seem likely that crochet used in icy climates would develop different stitch patterns, methods, and materials from crochet that developed in tropical climates?

About the Name Crochet

It’s French and means small hook. It’s properly pronounced cro-shay. (Many crochet how-to books don’t give the pronunciation, so I thought I should.) Occasionally I see it spelled crotchet, so perhaps some people pronounce it that way.

All of us English speakers use the French term. In other languages, to crochet is called:

  • tejer in Spanish,
  • häkeln in German,
  • szydelkowac in Polish,
  • Gōu biān in Chinese,
  • virkning in Swedish,
  • hekle in Norwegian, and
  • haken in Dutch.

Defining Crochet

Crochet how-to books start out with some kind of introductory description of crochet. I started to write that for this post, then remembered that I did this for the launch of my DesigningVashti.com website! I still like what I wrote there, so please have a look.

Update: In 2018 I suggested this definition of crochet to the Center for Knit and Crochet. As a starting point the group has been using The Getty’s indexing description:

Textile construction involving the interlocking of looped stitches, employing a single cord or strand of yarn and a single hooked needle.

My preference:

Textile construction involving the continual loosening, tightening, wrapping, and interlocking of adjustable loops to form a range of stitch types. A fabric can be built in any direction by adding new stitches anywhere, including “in the air” to add a foundation for new stitches. This freeform property distinguishes crochet from linear grid-based textiles such as weaving (and perhaps nålbinding and knitting). Usually, a single strand of cord or yarn is employed at a time. More than one strand may be held together and used as one, or alternated in use (such as to change colors frequently).

The primary tool is a crochet hook, which resembles a dowel of any diameter with a hook at one end (sometimes at both ends). Stainless steel is the preferred material for the crochet hooks of extremely small diameters (typically 1.75 mm down to .5 mm, for use with superfine threads) for greatest strength and durability. This is probably why the crochet hook may still be referred to with the outdated term “needle”.

This page was updated November 2018. It’s part of an experimental blog post series: Vashti’s How to Crochet Book. Next post: Start Crocheting From Scratch.

Minuet Vest

Minuet Vest pattern: regular traditional filet on the left, Tunisian filet on the right (red vest).

With just two skeins of a casual daytime cotton yarn, this summery vest can be thrown on over anything for a bold, modern lace statement. Use a polished fashion yarn, and the silky gloss suddenly takes the same design into an elegant Jane Austen-style world. The dramatic architecture of the lace is unforgettable over solid black. 

The basic idea of the Minuet Vest is this: crochet a simple shape, add a fancy border, then link up the sides to turn it into a vest. I chose plain filet crochet lace for the simple base shape so that it would be quick to crochet. Filet is also an easy grid for edging with a fancy border later. Chains and single crochets are the only stitches needed for the lacy scallop border.

This design won the Hookalicious award in 2010 from the Crochet Liberation Front.

Pattern Features

This pattern explains step by step how to use a type of Tunisian Knit Treble stitch for the filet, like I used for the red Minuet. If you prefer to use regular crochet stitches such as the treble crochet + ch-2 filet I used for the cropped yellow version, see this online article about adjusting the gauge of filet stitches.

Printer-friendly filet charts and edging diagrams are on the last pages of this pattern.

Skill Level

Intermediate to Experienced because of the join-as-you-go seaming. Over the years I’ve encountered crocheters who struggle with assemble-as-you-go garment construction. The struggle may be with how it’s described in text, so I’ve created visual aids for this step on the last pages. 

The skill level of the stitches is Intermediate due to the Tunisian crochet stitches used for the filet section. Experienced filet crocheters can substitute regular filet stitches following the filet charts on the last pages. The fancy scallop border requires only chains and single crochets. 

I’ve kept pattern abbreviations to a minimum and include International English equivalents for American terms.

?After using this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to construct a vest as you go, with a few crochet joins instead of seams.
  • How to let a fancy border do all the shaping.
  • How to use the same pattern to make a cropped bolero style.
  • How to crochet an easy, great-looking Tunisian Filet stitch variation.
  • How to adjust both stitch and row gauges of your filet crochet lace.
  • How to fine-tune a standard size for a Petite or Tall fit.

Materials

  • Crochet Hooks: Tunisian G-6 (4 mm) and approx. 10″ {25.4 cm} long; or size required for gauge. Regular crochet hook G-6 (4 mm) or size required for gauge. 
  • Ten stitch markers (for shoulders, corners, and side seam joins during final edging)
  • Yarn: Choose a yarn in the #2 Fine Weight category with a recommended crochet hook size range of US E/4 {3.5 mm} to US G/6 {4.0 mm}. These yarns may also be referred to as Sport or Heavy Sock {Light DK, 5-Ply}. For example, Patons’ Grace (100% mercerized cotton; green swatch in photo album).

Yarn Used for Tunisian Cherry VestDesigningVashti.com Lotus (54% Cotton, 46% Rayon; 256yd/234m per 3.5oz/100g skein): 1 ball (256 yds) for cropped bolero lengths of all sizes except Medium and Large; 2 balls (512 yds) for most sizes in the longer Vest length shown; 2 balls plus 1 smaller Lotus Snacks ball (600 yds) for Size Large Vest (has 3rd layer of Scallop edging, shown). 

Yarn Used for Key Lime Bolero: Universal Yarn’s Summer Linen (50% Linen, 50% Cotton, 126yd/115m per 1.76oz/50g ball): 2 balls (252 yds) used for Sizes Small and Smallish-Medium.

Finished Dimensions

How to choose your size: Make your vest any length you wish. This style is meant to be worn open and loose over other clothing, so even a close-fitting size will feel looser on (have more wearing ease) than it may seem from the measurements given below. 

For this pattern, the most important measurement is the width from shoulder to shoulder. The next most important one for fit is the chest/bust circumference. Each size has more than one finished bust measurement listed. It’s based on how many scallop rounds you add to the border. For example, the red vest has three rounds of scallops at the front opening (with a fourth for the collar), whereas the cropped version has only one round of scallops (with a second for the collar). Each round of scallops adds almost 5″ {12.7 cm} to the total circumference.

Sizes Teen 14-16 and XSmall

Across Shoulder when worn: 13″ {33 cm}

Finished Bust if vest is worn closed in front: 34″ {86.36 cm} with a border of two scallops would be a standard fit for a Size Teen 14-16, and close-fitting for an adult Size XSmall. 39″ {99 cm} with a wider border of three scallops would be a standard fit for an adult Size XSmall, and a very loose fit for a standard Teen.

Length: starts at 15″ {38 cm} for the cropped bolero style. Lengthen in 2.5″ {6.35 cm} increments easily with no limits; instructions are included in the pattern. Red vest shown is 22″ {55.88 cm} long. A knee length on a teen would look très Boho with boots and jeans!

Sizes Small and Smallish-Medium

Across Shoulder when worn: 15″ {38 cm}

Finished Bust if vest is worn closed in front: 37″ {94 cm} with a border of two scallops would be a standard fit for a Size Small, and close-fitting for a Size Medium. 41.5″ {105.4 cm} with a wider border of three scallops would be a standard fit for a Size Medium, and loose-fitting for a Size Small.

Length: starts at 15″ {38 cm} for cropped bolero style. Red vest shown is 22″ {55.88 cm} long. Lengthen in 2.5″ {6.35 cm} increments easily with no limits; instructions in the pattern.

Sizes Largish-Medium and Large. For a Plus Size 1X option, see Note under Finished Bust, below. 

Across Shoulder when worn: 17″ {43.18 cm}

Finished Bust if vest is worn closed in front: 39″ {99 cm} with a border of two scallops would be a standard fit for a Size Medium, and close-fitting for a Size Large. 44″ {111.76 cm} with a wider border of three scallops would be a standard fit for a Size Large, and loose-fitting for a Size Medium. Note: For a Plus Size 1X and 2X option, repeating the Scallop border a fourth time at only the sides would result in a finished bust of 49″ {126.46 cm}.

Length: starts at 17.5″ {44.45 cm} for the cropped bolero style. Red vest shown is 22″ {55.88 cm} long. Lengthen in 2.5″ {6.35 cm} increments easily with no limits; instructions in the pattern.

Warm Aeroette

Crocheting a rectangular scarf on the bias in Tunisian filet is rare for Tunisian crochet. Aeroette features the Tunisian foundation slip stitch increase method for this. 

Starting this scarf in one corner and finish at the opposite corner means you can easily make it wider for a wrap. Use any yarn; the special filet lace edging is crocheted as you go, and this makes it easy to predict how much yarn you’ll need to finish.

I originally designed Aeroette to be a practice pattern for a crochet class on the popular Aero WrapLike Aero, the scarf length and width are easy to adapt to the amount of yarn you have on hand.

Skill Level

Intermediate. Includes a stitch diagram and printer-friendly photo step-outs, for for lefties too. See Burly Bias (rated Advanced Beginner) and Tunisian Shakti Scarfythings (rated Easy) for good introductions to Tunisian biasing

?After using this pattern, you will know (if you didn’t already): 

  • How to start a Tunisian crochet project in one corner, build a rectangular scarf on the diagonal by increasing along the edges, and then decrease along both edges to complete it.
  • How to increase with the Tunisian Foundation Slip Stitch so that both shaped edges match.
  • How to understand this type of Tunisian crochet design in light of traditional filet crochet.
  • How to edge Tunisian crochet with lacy filet spaces as you go.
  • How to square up Tunisian filet edges with lean picots.

Finished Dimensions 

44″ x 10.5″ {111.76 x 26.67 cm} for a one-skein scarf; width and length are easily customized.

Materials

  • Tunisian Crochet Hook: Size US G/7 {4.5 mm}, minimum 10″ long, or size required for gauge.
  • Yarn: Abuelita Yarns Merino 3 Ply (100% fine imported merino wool; 420 yds {384 m} per 3.5 oz {100 g} skein): 1 skein.

To substitute a yarn of the same thickness: Choose a #1 Super Fine Weight yarn with a recommended hook size range of US C/2 {2.25 mm} to US E/4 {3.5 mm}. These yarns may also be called Fingering, Sock, Light Sport, Baby {3-Ply}. 

To substitute a thicker or thinner yarn, try a crochet hook size that is 2 to 3 sizes larger than usual for the yarn. The stitch diagram and basic pattern instructions will work for the yarn type, yarn amount, and hook size you decide to use.

Posted on 2 Comments

The Two Free Victorian Crochet Pattern Books I Love!

Of course, ALL free Victorian crochet pattern books are lovable. After I researched crochet stitches for my classes, though, I keep these two close by and bookmarked. Both of these antique crochet books were published in 1891. (Click each image for the free download information and link.)

Last year I searched in literally hundreds of crochet books and booklets. I love researching crochet. Lots of antique, public domain crochet sources are keepers. Perhaps these two stand out in particular because of the specific stitches I was looking for.

  • The Art of Crocheting. By Butterick Publishing Co., Ltd., 1891 (London and New York).
  • Home Work, A Choice Collection of Useful Designs for the Crochet and Knitting Needle… By A. M., Rose Publishing Co. Ltd. (Toronto).

I recorded all occurrences of star stitches, love knots (“knot stitches” to the Victorians), and lacy Tunisian crochet patterns. I was surprised to discover that in many of the publications ranging from the 1840’s to the 2010’s, these stitches often didn’t appear at all. These two 1891 gems were especially fun for creative star stitch patterns.

Researching crochet stitches in free Victorian crochet pattern books offers lots of insight into crochet’s development. It’s fascinating to see how crochet is explained, illustrated, and promoted. Exciting, too! By 1891 the public demand for crochet patterns and stitch how-tos was very strong.

Free Victorian crochet pattern books date from the 1840’s to shortly before World War I. Please support the Antique Pattern Library. It’s one of my favorite sources for some obscure early indie crochet designer booklets too. I hope you will help their cause by donating scans or funds.

The Home Work book was the focus of an ambitious crochet pattern project by the Cyber Chapter of the Crochet Guild of America (CGOA). Members crocheted actual swatches and projects from the book. The exhibit of them at CGOA’s annual Chain Link conference was a highlight of the event!

Also see my Antique Crochet Stunners board in Pinterest.

Posted on Leave a comment

Crochet Swatch Puzzler

Most of the time I can pick up a crochet swatch and identify its top (last row crocheted) and bottom (foundation row). I save crocheted swatches for reference, so it’s important to me to be able to do this confidently and accurately.

Here’s a swatch that puzzles me at first, each time I see it. Then I remember helpful identification clues.

A crochet swatch that's not easy to "read"
Is this crochet swatch right side up?

The swatch in hand puzzles me almost as much as this photo of it.

Being able to quickly identify how a crochet swatch was created is a special skill. It may take many years of crocheting to develop it.

This is true for images of crochet (photos and drawings) as well as for the actual piece.

The single most helpful clue about this swatch is that it’s Tunisian crochet.

This means it’s likely that we’re looking at the right side of the stitches. Tunisian stitches usually all face the front, and look distinctly different on the back. Usually.

I can quickly make sense of a new-looking Tunisian crochet swatch if I can identify where the return row stitches line up. The return row is when the loops are worked off of the crochet hook. If I know whether the crocheter is crocheting leftie, then I know which direction the return row stitches should be traveling. They go toward the right edge if crocheted right-handed. (I’m right handed.)

Thirdly, I know two basic ways to make Tunisian crochet lacy. You can:

  • Use the Tyo (Tunisian Yarn Over stitch), and/or
  • Add chain stitches during the return rows.

This issue of my Crochet Inspirations Newsletter briefly contrasts the two kinds.

I’ve started a project page for this in Ravelry. I’ll add updates to it as the project takes shape.