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Shakti Scarfythings

This simple scarf & wrap pattern is really all about one powerful Tunisian crochet stitch. Quickly crochet easy scarves, wraps and shawls with this exciting lacy Tunisian crochet stitch. Learn to crochet it on the bias with any yarns and crochet hook sizes, then try seaming your scarf four different ways for new fashion looks.

As a “superpattern,” pattern includes a menu of six projects for you to choose from. Use it for your own freeform crochet: pair your own yarn and hook size, choose how many chains you start with and how many rows you end with, and try a new way of seaming it.

Crocheting this stitch on the bias feels so natural that it’s my first choice for crocheters new to crocheting on the bias. Oddly, this stitch has no standard name or description, and doesn’t seem to be one of the basic stitches one learns after the Tunisian Simple Stitch, even though it’s easy to do! I’ve seen it called several different names. I prefer Extended Knit Stitch and abbreviated it Tkes in this pattern.

The rows bias effortlessly for a dynamic stretch and flowing drape. The stitch is equally lovely in a tighter gauge for a solid warm scarf, or crocheted very loosely for a lacy layer, so this one pattern spans every season. I like wearing it as a narrower scarf, and also as a wider wrap.

The possibilities get even more exciting when I’ve tried seaming it four different ways! A mobius with a corner is one of my favorite results. The Tkes so versatile is that it looks great on both sides, so it’s a natural choice for a scarf or wrap with a mobius twist.

Skill Level

Easy. You should already be familiar with beginner Tunisian crochet patterns; you might like this handy checklist. This pattern is a good introduction to these other DesigningVashti patterns: Tunisian Islander Wrap (same stitch with a fancier edge), Neck Lattice (published in Simply Crochet by Interweave Press ©2011), Four Peaks (offset Tunisian Simple Stitch with eyelet edge), and most recently, Eilanner.

UK and Australian equivalents to American measurements, yarn weights, and stitch terms are provided in brackets. After using this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to crochet the Tunisian Extended Knit Stitch
  • How biasing works with Tunisian crochet stitches
  • How to crochet easy Tunisian lace by pairing a crochet hook size and yarn
  • How to seam a crochet scarf into four or more fashion wraps

Finished Dimensions

With materials used, tips & wearing notes for six projects. I have so many images for this pattern that I invite you to see more in this online photo set.

For several projects shown I used a size L/US11/8mm Tunisian crochet hook used, at least 8″ {20.5 cm} long. For some I used a size N/US15/10mm, and a size K/US10.5/6.5mm hook would also work great with some yarns.

Colorblock-Shakti: I love wearing this one unseamed as a simple scarf, because it shows off the diagonal color blocks the best. I also like how the wool fibers felt together a bit over time for a warm soft scarf. If I had 100g-150g of this yarn instead of 75g, I’d make the scarf slightly wider and longer.

  • Measured hung and unseamed, 64″ long X 6.5″ wide {163 cm X 16.5 cm}.
  • Yarn used: An anonymous self-striping mill-end yarn that is most likely merino wool; its weight category appears to be #3 (DK, light worsted). Yardage unknown; scarf weighs 2.65oz {75g}. For a fun scrap yarn project that approximates this look, crochet two strands held together of 8 contrasting #1 Super Fine Weight yarns (Fingering or light sock yarn, 3-ply baby yarn).

Swizzle-Shakti: As a 1-skein project, I like this one several ways, such as partially seamed with a half-twist mobius-style cowl. However, I love the luxurious feeling of it and its dramatic tiger pelt look, so I’d also like it longer and wider to wear as a wrap.

  • Measured hung and unseamed, 46″ X 7″ {117 cm X 18 cm}.
  • Yarn used: The Alpaca Yarn Company Swizzle (100% superfine alpaca; 215yd/197 m per 3.5oz/100g skein), 1 skein of color 07 Tiger Lily.

Skinny-Shakti: I like this one as a ruffled collar tied with a ribbon drawstring, instead of wearing it as a long skinny scarf, because it’s the only way that the stitch texture shows. I’d like it even more if I had a soft silk tie to use instead of the ribbon.

  • Measured hung and unseamed, collapses to 88″ X 2″ {approx. 220 cm X 5 cm}
  • Yarn used: Tilli Tomas Rock Star (100% silk with beads; 150yd/137m per 3.5oz/100g skein), 1 skein of color Ginger.

Red Mohair Veil: I love draping this fabric around me, and have plenty of yarn left to make it bigger. It’s weightless but warm, delicate and strong, and soft with an elegant sheen. It’s already a good bare-minimum width for me as a wrap, fine for throwing around my shoulders easily without catching on anything while I’m sitting.

  • Measured hung and unseamed, 53″ X 12.5″ {135 cm X 32 cm}.
  • Yarn used: Wagtail Yarns 4-Ply (100% Fine Kid Mohair; 410yd/375m per 3.5oz/100g skein), 1 skein of color 350 300, Winter Red.

Mobi-Dickie: I most like this one seamed with a half-twist, mobius-style. This is a stiffer but still soft fabric for more structured looks. Hanging it doesn’t change its dimensions much, but it does stretch nicely when worn.

  • Measured flat, 33″ X 9.5″ {84 cm X 24 cm}.
  • Yarn used: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 108yd/99m per 6oz/170g skein), one skein of Wheat and half of a skein of Taupe for 2-color version.

Suave Shoulders: This capelet-type cowl variation of Mobi-Dickie is seamed as a simple tube, and stretches wider at the shoulder than at the neck.

  • Measured flat, 33″ X 12″ {84 cm X 30.5 cm}.
  • Yarn used: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 108yd/99m per 6oz/170g skein), one skein of Wheat and one skein of Taupe for 2-color version.

Thaxton Hooded Cowl

Thaxton Hooded Cowl: Slip Stitch Crochet

This pattern offers two lengths plus a seaming alternative that creates a true hood. Even without a seamed hood, it’s long and stretchy enough to cover the head in the style of a wimple or “snood.”

This is my warmest, favorite winter accessory. It features my all-time favorite type of ribbing: crochet slip stitches worked into the back loop.

Luxuriously roomy, stretchy, warm and squishy, the Thaxton Cowl will keep your upper back and chest toasty whether worn like a collar or unfurled into a hood.

It’s a close-knit yet 100% crocheted cowl. The rows run from top to bottom of the cowl opening, so it’s crocheted side-to-side for change of pace. The lovely short row wedges allow it to flare at the shoulders yet cozy up to the neck. When not worn as a hood, the full-length version is long enough to be triple-folded. The shorter, yarn-conserving option is still roomy. The Notch scarf is based on these textured wedges.

Skill Level

Intermediate. Short rows are an Intermediate skill. Also, the hook-led stitch gauge is much looser than most crocheters were taught to use when they learned how to make their first slip stitches.

The slip stitch is elementary crochet, and I find that crocheting slip stitch short rows is a breeze. It adds just enough spice to a simple stitch to create that “Just one more row!” fun. If you haven’t tried slip stitch short rows yet, start with Slip Slope Scarf.

I’ve kept pattern abbreviations to a minimum and include International English equivalents for American terms.

?After using this pattern, you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to crochet stylish and stretchy slip stitch ribbing
  • How to shape a ribbed cowl with short rows
  • How to add decorative accents to short-rowed ribbing
  • How to seam a flared cowl into a hooded capelet
  • How to use a hook-led stitch gauge

Finished Dimensions (Unstretched)

21″ long (from neck opening to shoulder opening) X 22″ circumference at neck, widening to 43″ circumference at shoulder {53 cm X 56 cm & 110 cm}. Extra length is for doubling or tripling as a cowl when not worn over the head as a hood. The shorter cowl option can be easily be folded over once and is 16″ long {41 cm}.

These roomy dimensions are a guideline. They allow for the slightly tighter slip stitch ribbing that I see many crocheters making. (If your stitches are tighter, the overall finished dimensions of the cowl and hood will be smaller.) Pattern includes customizing options if your stitches are coming out tighter or looser so that you can end up with the fit you prefer.

Materials

  • Crochet Hook: Size J/US10/6.0mm hook.
  • Size #4 Medium yarn: Misti Alpaca Tonos Worsted (50% baby alpaca, 50% merino wool, 218yd/200m per 3.5oz/100g skein), 2.5 skeins (approx. 550 yds/500m) of color TW10 (raspberry red) for the roomy longer hooded cowl pictured; 2 full skeins (approx. 440yds/400m) for a shorter cowl.

Substituting a yarn: The best fibers for this project add bounce and plump stretchiness to the cowl because of their wool or acrylic content. A special upscale yarn with tonal hand dyeing adds to the experience. Choose a #4 medium-weight yarn that lists a crochet hook size range from US H/8/5mm-J/10/6mm on its label. These yarns may also be referred to as Heavy Worsted, Aran, Afghan, and occasionally “Light Chunky” Weight.

  • Stitch markers: Two or more until you can recognize the last slip stitch of each row.

Slip Tectonics Cowl

Learn to crochet short rows with different slip stitches for a self-shaping, self-striping crocheted cowl scarf, neckwarmer, long loop scarf–even a mobius-style infinity scarf! (See Finished Dimensions, below.) It’s a cozy, stretchy, warm, snug crochet mens scarf in a neutral color. Fun, fast, and easy to crochet special technique.

This 100% slip stitch crochet scarf is a handsome study in short row wedges. The subtle contrast between two kinds of slip stitches adds natural shaping. It cozies up to the neck and drapes effortlessly at the shoulders. The result is a comfortable cowl to wear. It’s stretchy, thin, and dense–just right as a toasty layer under a winter coat.

The stitch pattern looks more complicated than it really is. With a larger than usual crochet hook, it crochets up faster than you’d think. I devoted Issue #29 of my Crochet Inspirations Newsletter to this inspiring technique of using slip stitches for short rows.

Skill Level

Intermediate. The slip stitch is an elementary stitch, and I find that crocheting short rows with slip stitch ribbing is a breeze. It adds just enough spice to the easy stitching to create that “Just one more row!” fun.

However, short rows are considered an Intermediate skill, and the stitch gauge is much looser than most crocheters learn to use when making their elementary stitches.

Start with these training wheel patterns (some are free): Bling Bam Bangles, Slipster Slackscarf, Eva. Graduate to short rowing with slip stitches: Luckyslip Mitts (originally designed as a final project of my Slip Stitch 101 classes) and Slip Slope. After Tectonics you’ll be ready for the speedy Expedient Capelet, the fluttery Undaria, and the lacy Swoop Loop!

Pattern has few abbreviations and includes International English equivalents for American measurements, yarn weights, and stitch terms. The English equivalents are in brackets {}.

After following this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to crochet a stylish and stretchy neckwarmer or loop scarf
  • How mixing slip stitch types can add subtle texture & drape contrasts
  • How to add designer touches to slip stitch short rows
  • How to use a hook-led stitch gauge

Finished Dimensions

Cowl is 25″ (hem)/ 21″ (neck) x 6.5″ deep {64 cm & 54 cm long x 17 cm wide}.

For a long loop scarf, 350 yds of yarn would probably result in a 6.5″-wide scarf with at least a 60″ circumference {17 cm wide, 153 cm circumference]. Give it a half-twist before seaming to turn it into an ‘infinity scarf’–a moebius loop scarf. To increase width, use a larger hook size with thicker yarn.

Supplies List

  • Crochet Hook: Size K/US10.5/6.5mm.
  • Yarn Shown: Crystal Palace Mochi Plus (80% merino wool, 20% nylon; 95yd/87m per 1.75oz/50g ball): 2 balls of color 554 “Fern Rainbow.”

Substituting a yarn: The best yarns for this project are wool or acrylic blends because they add bouncy loft. Cotton yarns do not add this bounce. Long color changes in a self-striping yarn, or subtle tonal shades of a hand dyed yarn, work great for this design! Choose a plump #4 medium-weight yarn that lists on its label a crochet hook size range from US H/8/5mm-J/10/6mm. These yarns may also be referred to as Heavy Worsted, Aran, Afghan, and occasionally “Light Chunky” Weight.

  • Recommended if you’re new to slip stitch crochet: up to 17 stitch markers (until you can recognize the last slip stitch of each row).

Aero Wrap

Crocheting and wearing Aero is an elegant experience of Tunisian crochet lace. With fine silk yarn and the add-as-you-go beading option, the beauty of the lacy stitches hanging from your hook will inspire “just one more row!”

I developed this point-to-point stitch pattern and love it because I can build up more stitching speed than usual with Tunisian crochet. I also found its filet logic easy to memorize.

Tall stitches and open spaces create a Tunisian version of traditional filet crochet. Writing my newsletter on lacy nets inspired it. And, the stitch pattern looks nice enough on both sides to call it reversible.

Crocheting a triangular wrap from point to point makes it easy to use any amount of light weight yarn you have on hand. If you use a smaller amount of yarn than I did, the wide, shallow triangular shape will come out scarf-sized. (The pattern is created the same no matter how much yarn you use.)

Skill Level

Advanced Intermediate. Aero combines Tunisian stitches that may be familiar to those who have already ventured beyond the Tunisian Simple Stitch: the Tunisian Yarn Over (Tyo), Tunisian Double Treble {UK: Tunisian Triple Treble} (Tdtr), and twisted stitches. To see if you’re ready for an Intermediate-level Tunisian pattern, review this quick checklist.

It’s best if you have crocheted at least one Beginner or Easy level Tunisian crochet pattern first. Warm Aeroette started out as a practice swatch for students in my Aero classes! Other good stepping stones to Aero would be Ennis Revelation and Aery Faery. I’ve kept pattern abbreviations to a minimum and include International English equivalents for American terms.

?After using this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to create dramatic new filet lace with Tunisian crochet stitches
  • How to crochet a triangular scarf or wrap from point to point and the delightful convenience of crocheting the edging as you go
  • How to add beads to the as-you-go edging without pre-stringing them
  • The power of simple blocking to transform Tunisian crochet lace

Finished Dimensions

The pictured green wrap is 21″ at deepest center point and 61″ wide from point to point {53 X 155 cm}. Crocheting a shawl or scarf from point to point makes it easy to use any amount of yarn you have on hand, and to make it the size you wish.

Materials

Crochet Hook: Size F/US5/3.75 mm Tunisian hook, at least 13″/33 cm long. You can use a shorter Tunisian hook for the shortest beginning rows, and then switch to a longer hook as it becomes necessary for comfortably holding all loops on the hook. If you are going to add beads, you’ll need a steel crochet hook that is small enough to fit through the bead holes and pull through a loop of your yarn. (I used a .75mm Tulip hook labeled #10. Other brands may label the same mm size with a different number.)

Yarn used for pictured scarf: Handmaiden Sea Silk (70% Silk, 30% Seacell® 437 yds/400 m per 3.5 oz/100 g ball), 1 full skein.

Yarn substituting advice: This pattern will work with any amount and weight of yarn. To match the effect of the pictured wrap, look for a yarn weight of #1 Super Fine (“Fingering”) {UK & AUS 3 Ply}; or one recommending a needle or hook size range of B/US1/2.25 mm – D/US3/3.25 mm on its label. If this is your first time crocheting into the loops of Tunisian Yarn Over stitches, try to find a yarn that has subtle color changes like the tonal hand-dyed one shown. It was a bit challenging at first to make tall stitches with slippery yarn, but I quickly grew used to it.

Small scale for weighing yarn: recommended if you’re using an odd number of skeins of yarn, or partial skeins.

Beads (optional): At least 50 size 6/0 (“E Bead”) beads and a steel crochet hook small enough to fit through the bead hole and pull a loop of yarn through it. Triple your quantity of beads if you’ll be adding 3 beads to a stitch at a time (see photo in pattern). For the green Aero I used 1 bead per 2-row repeat for a total of 44 beads; I had to discard a few that had small holes. The number of beads you need will vary because the usable holes of your beads are likely to vary, and because you may get fewer, or more, row repeats from your yarn.

The Eva Sweater

Eva is a fun way to crochet a sweater: start with stretchy scarf. This one features buttery plush slip stitch ribbing. Crochet lace onto it and you’re basically done. This easy-to-make sweater is often called a “cocoon shrug” and the fashionably wide ribbing does the shaping. Eva stays on the shoulders!

Pattern includes helpful images, stitch symbols for the lacy back, and an assembly diagram. International English equivalents to American measurements, yarn weights, and stitch terms are provided in brackets.

Skill Level

Easy Intermediate. The construction is an uncomplicated yet uncommon way to crochet a shrug by assembling rectangular pieces, then seaming them as you go. Pattern is written with a limited amount of abbreviations. 

After using this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to turn a rectangle into a comfortable “cocoon” or “cutaway”-style sweater
  • A fun, quick, and ingenious way to crochet a ribbed shrug
  • The design appeal of crochet slip stitches worked in a looser, “hook-led” gauge

Finished Dimensions

This sweater is a cutaway type shrug or cocoon, so it is designed to be worn open in front. The ribbing is so stretchy that it gives a shaped fit. Pictured sweater is a size Small to Medium.

Size Small-to-Medium: A few extra rows of the lace section are added to give the Medium size more length at the back waist and a bit more width at the bust. This option would also work for a taller size Small person, or for someone who is long-waisted.

  • Width at Bust: Fits actual bust sizes from 32″ to 36″ {81 cm–91.5 cm} the best. 
  • Back Length: 16.5″–19.5″ {42–49 cm} not including ribbed band.

Size Large-to-1X: A few extra rows of the lace section are added to give the 1X size more length at the back waist and a bit more width at the bust. This option would also work for a taller size Large person, or for someone who is long-waisted.

  • Width at Bust: Fits actual bust sizes from 40″ to 46″ {102 cm – 117 cm}. 
  • Back Length: 19″ – 22″ {48 cm – 56 cm} not including ribbed band.

Supplies Needed

  • Crochet Hook: Size US J-10/6.00mm or size required for gauge. A US K-10.5/6.50mm crochet hook (or one size larger than the one required for gauge) is needed for foundation chs only. A US H-8/5.00mm crochet hook (or one size smaller than the one required for gauge) is needed for seaming only.
  • Three Stitch Markers
  • Yarn Shown: Berroco VintageTM (50% acrylic, 40% wool, 10% nylon; 217yds/200m per 3.5oz/100g), color #5175, 4 skeins.

Substituting a yarn: The best fibers for this project add bounce and plump stretchiness because of their wool or acrylic content. Choose a #3 light- to #4 medium-weight yarn that recommends on the label a crochet hook size range somewhere between US G/7/4.5mm-I/9/5.5mm. These yarns may also be referred to as DK (Double Knitting), Light Worsted, or Worsted weight.