Emdash Scarf: Flounced Filet

I’ve had the idea for this double-flounced spring scarf ever since I swatched filet lace with the first shipment of our Lotus yarn. The name “Emdash” refers to the vertical spacers between tall stitch columns.

Our Lotus yarn of course is great for this, but the pattern works equally well with any yarn or crochet thread you would use for filet crochet. Diagrams, lovely photo step outs, helpful links, and customizing tips are included. It’s easy to change the scarf’s width and length.

Emdash has two design sisters: the fine mohair Antoinette, and the rather boho Cantina. Cantina is Emdash’s double flounce that is beaded and repeated in different colors (or scrap yarns). It started out as an eye-catching way to display Emdash in 15 Lotus colors in a show booth.

Skill Level

Easy Intermediate. This elegant filet crochet project offers Intermediate-level refinements: Special Turn, Centered stitches, and Standing stitches. The first two polish up the selvage-like row edges. Centered stitches disguise the stringy look that often develops at the tops of very tall filet stitches.

While crocheting Emdash you’ll experience:

  • How to start a new tall-stitch row without the usual gap along the edge.
  • How to give an elegant finish to super-tall stitches using Intermediate-level options.
  • How to create lacy double-layer flounces at the scarf ends.
  • How to crochet cleanly centered tall filet stitches in columns.

Finished Measurements

65″ x 7″ (165cm x 17.78cm)

Materials

  • Crochet Hook: US G6/4mm or size required for gauge. 
  • Yarn used: Designing Vashti Lotus (52% Cotton/48% Rayon; 3.5oz/100g; 256yds/235m each), 2 skeins.

To substitute a yarn, choose a #2 Fine Weight yarn with a recommended crochet hook size range of US E/4 {3.5 mm} to US G/6 {4.0 mm}. These yarns may be called Sport or Heavy Sock {Light DK, 5-Ply}. To use a thinner or thicker yarn, use a crochet hook size from the larger end of the range stated on the yarn label.

Cantina Scarf: Flounced Filet

Cantina Scarf is the yarn-partying sister of the Emdash and Antoinette scarves. Like Antoinette, this one’s a holiday-inspired design; in silvery colors and beaded picots, the flounces remind me of silver bells. 

This is a fast and portable filet crochet project in the Easy skill category. The pattern includes optional intermediate-level skill-building refinements: Special Turn, Centered stitches, and Standing stitches. It naturally lends itself to color changes and scrap amounts of yarn. The beaded option is low-fuss because you only need string on enough beads for one flounce at a time.

After using this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

  • How to start a new filet stitch row with a neat, even edge.
  • How to crochet filet stitches so they stack up in centered columns.
  • How to crochet polished-looking super-tall stitches for dramatic effect.
  • How to create quick and lovely layered lace flounces.

Finished Dimensions 

50″ x 5″ at flared points (127.0 cm x 12.7 cm). Change these dimensions using guidelines provided in the pattern. UK and Australian equivalents for American measurements, yarn weights, and stitch terms are in brackets { }.

Materials

  • Crochet Hook: US G6/4mm or size required for gauge. 
  • Yarn used: DesigningVashti Lotus Snacks (52% Cotton, 48% Rayon; 85 yds/77.7 m per 1.16 oz/33 g ball). For 3-color “Silver Bells” version, 1 ball each of Satin Grey (MC), Crystal Blue, and White Blaze. For 13-color rainbow version, 20 yds/18.3 m (7.7g, or ¼ of one ball) per color. To substitute, choose a #2 Fine Weight yarn with a recommended crochet hook size range of US E/4 {3.5 mm} to US G/6 {4.0 mm}. These yarns may be called Sport or Heavy Sock {Light DK, 5-Ply}.
  • Seed beads, optional: 15 beads per flounce (i.e., per 4″/10cm of scarf length). I used jumbo size 1/0. If you change the width of your scarf, the number of beads per flounce will change.
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Yarn Tests for a New Tunisian Crochet Filet Design

Yarn tests for stitch close up photos: color, plying, thickness, etc.
This blog post is third in a short series about the development of a new Tunisian crochet pattern pdf.

Two kinds of yarn tests.

I did two kinds of yarn tests for my new Tunisian crochet filet scarf (first blogged here).

#1. For Tutorial Close Ups

I’ve learned to take three things into account: the yarn’s plying, color, and thickness.

Yarn plies: I have the best luck with a single ply yarn. More than one ply can add a distracting texture, especially in close ups. I love the look and colors of the purple yarn in the first photo, but its plies worried me. (Each individual ply of this unusual 100% cashmere yarn is twisted, but there’s no twist holding them all together.)

The color(s): Yarn colors also matter for Tunisian crochet filet close ups. A single light color shows texture depth the best. I tend to avoid variegated yarns, with exceptions here and there.

Extreme close up of a good quality crochet thread makes it look old and hairy.
Opera crochet thread is known for its polished, silky beauty. This extreme close up is not its best look.

Subtle color shifts can be a real plus with Tunisian crochet, though! I think this might be because it helps the eye distinguish forward pass loops from return pass loops. (Four Peaks images are good examples of this. Strong contrasting color shifts would normally be distracting. This isn’t the case for Four Peaks because of the small, fine-grained Tunisian simple stitches.)

Yarn weight: If I’m taking close up photos, and the camera has a good zoom lens, why does it matter how thin or thick the yarn is? How about using a crisp crochet thread? I discovered the hard way that I have better luck with a thick yarn. With thread and skinny yarns, the individual fibers show up too much in each loop. Even slight fuzziness is magnified. It makes the yarn or thread look old, shaggy, and worn out.

#2. A Winter Yarn

I fell in love with my first Tunisian crochet filet design in wool. That would be…Warm Aeroette! (Hence the “warm” part.) Traditional filet lace has mostly been a cotton thread kind of crochet project. Maybe that’s why I didn’t think of wool at first.

Until Aeroette I’d only had Tunisian crochet filet thoughts in bamboo (Ennis), silk (Aero), and cotton (dishcloth test in my Lotus yarn). It’s thanks to Warm Aeroette that I discovered how nice Four Peaks is is in a toasty aran-weight wool.

I needed to test with classic wool yarn to know Aeroette better. Could it work in something other than Aero’s fancy silk? Unlike Four Peaks, the wool yarn I used isn’t thick; it’s a fingering/sock weight fine-micron merino wool. (Fine-micron merino has a lot in common with cashmere.)

Thin fingering weight gives the tall Tunisian filet stitches a fine-grained texture. In a thick wool like the Mochi Plus (blue photo above), the filet-style lacy eyelets could look clunky or lumpy as a scarf. Would be a lovely afghan border though!

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Not Tunisian Crochet Stitches: a Converted Filet Swatch

This is the first of 3 blog posts on the release of a new Tunisian crochet pattern. The 2nd is here and the third is here.

I used no Tunisian crochet stitches for the swatch on the left only.

Instead, I used single crochet, double crochets, and chains. (US abbreviations: sc, dc, and ch. Outside of the US: dc, tr, ch). The chs and dcs create lacy open spaces in the style of filet crochet. I alternated each filet row with a row of sc. Not traditional for filet crochet, but it does follow filet logic. (This is one reason I wanted to swatch it; see this newsletter issue about a similar experiment.)

Not Tunisian crochet stitches vs Tunisian crochet (filet-style Aeroette Scarf)
No Tunisian crochet stitches at left, converted from the Tunisian crochet Aeroette scarf at right.

The sc rows give the spaces thicker top and bottom “walls” around the spaces. This matches the thicker side “walls” created by the dc pairs.

This stitch pattern is converted from the Warm Aeroette Scarf on the right, which is 100% Tunisian crochet stitches. I was curious to see how much these two would differ in looks, surface texture, and drape.

Single Crochets versus Tunisian Crochet Stitches

The first thing I notice about the left swatch is the single crochets. Specifically, the backs of them. They’re raised, bumpy, and have a distinctive look. To me they emphasize a horizontal grain of the left swatch.

Unlike the rows of Tunisian crochet stitches on the right, I turned after every row of the left swatch. We’re looking at the right side of a dc row alternated with a wrong side of a sc row. The bumpy sc backs also cause the dc rows to recede a bit. This adds to the effect of the sc rows standing out, almost ridge-like.

This effect is mostly absent from the Tunisian swatch on the right. Its surface is uniformly flatter. Tunisian crochet stitches do have their own horizontal texture. They get it from the return passes – that second part of a complete Tunisian row when you crochet the loops off of the hook. In this pattern, the return pass textures are no more raised than the vertical stitch textures created during the forward passes.

Differences I’m Not Seeing

I expected to see a difference in how the yarn’s color changes look, but I don’t really. Maybe the swatch on the left needs to be much bigger. I also expected the Tunisian one to drape more. Perhaps it doesn’t because this is wool, and the hook size is smaller than I usually use for lacy Tunisian crochet stitches. I used a G-7 (4.5 mm) hook. For the non-Tunisian swatch I used a G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook.

The Warm Aeroette Scarf on the right is the next pattern I’ll be adding to the shop. I’ll announce it in my newsletter. You can also track its project page in Ravelry.

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Crochet Herringbone Chains Class Resources

Up to date as of 5/14/2022. This page will be updated again before class time and possibly after. 
View high-res versions of Herringbone Chains images in its photo album.
This page is a conveniently clickable group of things I mention in the new Crochet Herringbone Chains class. This two-day class will be held Wednesday, May 18 & Thursday May 19, 2022 at 1:00 pm – 2:00 pm Central Time.  — Vashti Braha

A Unique & Versatile Stitch

Herringbone chains are naturally sleek, strong, dense and flatter than regular crochet chains. This makes them as useful for functional reasons as for decorative ones. They twist up less than regular chains. This type of chain stitch has the same structure as the decorative military bugle cord that knot tyers traditionally make. They have a single bugle, double bugle, triple and more; we’ll learn how to crochet all of these!

Herringbone Chains on a big scale in three colors of chunky wool
Herringbone Chains on a big scale: triple-herringbone variation in three colors of chunky wool

This handy new crochet stitch resembles fishtail braids and soutache cord. When crocheted very loosely, it also looks like nålbinding.

Projects & Stitch Patterns

(In progress.)

Crochet Herringbone Chains and regular chain stitches
  1. Nankeen Necklace (2022).
  2. Tunisian Herringbone Zegue (2022).
  3. Lizzie Cuff (2021). Pictured at the top of this page.
  4. Beaded Herringbone Barefoot Sandals (2019), at right (or below if you’re on mobile).
  5. Rainchains silk skinny scarf (2018). See close up of raindrop in gallery, above.
  6. Lizard Cord (2018).

Herringbone Chain Swatches & Tests

Eleven Herringbone-Chain Cord experiments in fiber, color changes, beading, and stitch size
Herringbone-Chain cord experiments with beads, stitch size, color & fiber changes.

Flickr photo album for this class. A great way to see class material at full resolution, and an array of new uses and variations. I use stitch albums like this one for my own reference. I’m continually creating swatches and photos to add to this album.

My Pinterest Herringbone Chains Pin Board created for this class topic. It compares the look of herringbone chains with other arts–beading, leatherwork, embroidery, etc.

Recommended Articles

  • “Fancy Cords in 360°” Crochet Inspirations Newsletter Issue #17 (04/28/2011; most links in it are out of date)                  
  • “Tweak Those Gaps Along Row Edges” Crochet Inspirations Newsletter Issue #25 (08-2011; most links are out of date)
  • “Effect of ‘Sproing’ fibers on stitches”: Vashti’s Crochet Inspirations Newsletter Issue #11 (Feb 3 2011; links in it are out of date) 
  • “Wish Bracelets: Why Not Crocheted?” Vashti’s Crochet Newsletter Issue #69 (07/04/2015; most links are out of date)
  • “What IS Crochet, Really?” Vashti’s Crochet Newsletter Issue #103 (10/2020)  

Inspiration Boards for this Class

Still need to register for this class? Register with CGOA. This is a NEW two-hour class held online over two days: Wednesday, May 18 & Thursday May 19, 2022 at 1:00 pm – 2:00 pm Central Time. Registration closes 5/15/22 or when the class is filled.